Cottony Camellia Scale (Cottony Yew Scale)

Pest and Life Cycle (Pulvinaria floccifera) – Oval-shaped adult females (tan with brown edges) lay white egg clusters (shown above / about 1/4″ long with up to 1000 eggs) on the underside of leaves in May. The eggs hatch into yellowish-brown crawlers in early summer, with immature nymphs overwintering on foliage and stems. It is most commonly found on Holly (Ilex) in coastal British Columbia but has numerous other hosts including Camellia, Pittosporum, Euonymus, Hedera helix (English Ivy), Taxus (Yew), Hydrangea, Rhododendron and Maple.

Symptoms – Most gardeners notice the prominent white ovisacs (egg clusters shown) on the leaf reverse. Secondary symptoms include honeydew (sticky leaves) and the black sooty mold that grows on it – both of which are a result of the scale feeding on the leaves or needles. Heavy infestations can weaken plants, causing discoloration or pale foliage.

Management – The best time to control Cottony Camellia Scale is when the immature crawlers hatch (check from late spring to early summer), at which time an application of insecticidal soap is quite effective – making sure that the underside of the foliage is also given a spray. Dormant Oils (check label for plant compatibility) can be used on overwintering nymphs but they must be applied before the new foliage emerges in early spring. Superior or Summer Oils can be used later in the season. Heavily infested branches or twigs can be pruned out (and disposed of) as long as this does not affect the plant’s overall aesthetic appearance.

Prevention – 1. Always carefully inspect potential host plants at the garden center or nursery before purchase. 2. Monitor host plants on a regular basis, as it is much easier to eradicate a minor infestation. 3. Keep your shrubs and trees healthy, as they will be less likely to attract scale pests. 4. Control ants on host plants as they harvest honeydew as a food source and may deter natural scale predators.

Organic Wasp & Hornet Control

The first thing we need to do when thinking about wasps and hornets in our gardens is to change our attitudes a little. Both are actually beneficial insects that prey on garden pests (caterpillars, beetle larvae, ants, flies) to feed their young and they also pollinate plants to some degree. Wasps and Hornets generally avoid human activity and only sting when they feel threatened. Problems usually arise from food foraging (protein in spring, sugars in autumn) or nests that are built close to our outdoor recreational areas. The first is easily resolved by covering garbage and removing food sources such as barbeque meats in spring or juices and fallen fruit in the fall. Unwanted nesting can be avoided by sealing any entry points (cracks around windows and doors, uncovered vents) on the outside of your home to prevent wasps from utilizing these areas. There are also replica wasp nests (see below) that can prevent nest building in and around your patio or recreational areas. Other than that, there are several other non-spray options available;

Glass Wasp Catcher – These low-tech traps generally look like a blown glass bottle with a hole in the bottom protruding through a shallow reservoir area and a corked top. This simple device is hung from a tree branch or house eave close to where the wasps or hornets have become a problem. The wasps fly up through the bottom hole attracted to the juice or sweetened water lure in the reservoir. Once inside they are unable to orient themselves and become trapped – eventually drowning in the liquid lure. Adding several drops of liquid soap to the lure will also make it a more effective trap. Clean regularly by uncorking and pouring out the contents and using a hose through the bottom hole to rinse it out thoroughly. Unfortunately, this type may also trap honeybees and other beneficials.

Wasp Nest Decoys – There are several brands of wasp nest decoys on the market and these are useful in areas (around picnic tables and patios) where wasps have become a persistent nuisance. These are generally hung on a nearby tree limb or under the house eaves about 4-12′ from these problem areas, and suspended at 6-8′ off the ground. They work by appealing to the wasp’s territorial nature, as they will not usually build a nest within 200′ of another. That said, they do not work once the nest has already been built, so be sure to put them out early in the season.

One-Way Valves – There are several of these kits on the market, including ‘Fatal Funnel’. These one-way plastic valves are meant to be installed on empty 2 liter pop bottles (with cap intact) by cutting a 2″ cross hatch in the side and inserting. Small holes (or slits) should also be made near the top of the bottle to help ventilate the scent of the attractant or lure. Use several cups of fruit juice (pineapple or apple) with a tablespoon of sugar added as the lure (also add a drop or two of liquid dish soap). The trap is best hung within 20′ of the offending nest and it should be emptied of dead wasps on a regular basis. This type of trap may also attract honeybees.

Pheromone Traps – These more sophisticated traps use synthetic pheromones or sexual / aggregation lures as bait to bring the wasps and hornets into the trap. The Scott’s system uses a one-way valve in the lid or cover which is attached to the disposable bag below (apple juice can be added to make it more effective). The bag is simply disposed of by tying it off at the collar and pulling it away. Other systems use the same pheromones and lures, although the catch basin designs will usually vary.

Bamboo Mites

Pest and Life Cycle – (Stigmaeopsis celarius & S. longus) – Both these bamboo mite species (formerly Schizotetranychus) are found in the Pacific Northwest. They are most active during warm weather (starting in spring) and go through 5 distinct life stages, eventually forming large colonies on the reverse of the leaves that are protected by dense webbing (which makes them difficult to control). As they feed on the foliage, tissue is damaged and the plant loses some of its ability to photosynthesize, reducing vigor.

Symptoms – Patterns of cream-coloured bars or elongated blotches appear on the upper surface of the leaf which are a result of the mites feeding on the underside – starting at the base of the leaves. This mottling is often mistaken for a nutrient deficiency or variegation.

Management – Bamboo Mites are difficult to control with sprays, as they are located on the leaf reverse and are also protected by dense webbing. That said, you can try controlling small outbreaks by bending the canes and spraying the undersides with either horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. This method is not usually effective in large stands with serious infestations, so some gardeners achieve control by cutting down all the stems in early spring before the new culms or shoots emerge. It is important to remove or destroy all the cut canes and leaf litter on the ground, but if done properly the new shoots should emerge mite free. Your final option is biological control or predator mites, which may only be effective in contained areas – inquire at your local garden centre for the availability.

Prevention – 1. Inspect newly acquired bamboo plants carefully for infestation and consider quarantining them for a period of time before planting in the ground. 2. Thin out dense bamboo groves by 50% (removing older or weak culms first) to improve air circulation and make it harder for mites to establish dense colonies. 3. Some bamboo growers hard spray their plants with a pressure washer from time to time in order to dislodge existing bamboo mites and keep the population threshold (and symptoms) down.

Organic Fertilizers and Soil Amendments

Soft Rock Phosphate (0-12-0) – Soft Rock or Colloidial Phosphate is a byproduct of hard rock mining that has been skimmed off old settling ponds and powdered or prilled. It is a good source of phosphorus, calcium (20%), silicon and boron. Unlike hard rock phosphate which is not weathered enough and takes a long time to break down, soft rock phosphates are readily available to plants and not prone to leaching.

Blood Meal (12-0-0) – Blood meal is essentially powdered, dried bovine blood derived as a slaughterhouse byproduct. It is a good source of fast-acting water soluble nitrogen and as such, it also burns plants when applied in excess. It can be used to activate compost piles heavy with high carbon brown materials. Blood Meal is an effective deer and rabbit repellent, but it may also attract dogs, raccoons or even coyotes.

Dolomite Lime – This product is powdered or prilled Calcium Magnesium Carbonate and is an excellent source of Calcium (22%) and Magnesium (11%). It is often used in coastal British Columbia to raise the pH of lawns, as these tend to be on the acidic side due to our excess rains. Dolomite Lime is also applied to sweeten soils in vegetable gardens (not where you grow potatoes). Apply as needed by checking with a pH test.

Bone Meal (2-11-0) – Bone meal is usually made from ground, steamed beef bones in a powder form and used as a slow-release source of phosphorus (10-13%), calcium (24%) and nitrogen. It is primarily sold to promote root development and is often used around root vegetables and bulbous plants. Some gardeners avoid the use of Bone Meal due to concerns about BSE (Mad Cow Disease) contamination in the product.

Kelp Meal – Kelp Meal is derived from dried, ground Kelp (Ascophyllus nodosum), with the salt removed. It has an average N-P-K of 1-0-2 and is one of the best sources of minerals (contains over 70 vitamins, minerals and natural growth regulators). Kelp meal helps promote strong cell structure, stress tolerance and disease resistance in plants, as well as aiding soils to retain moisture and hold nutrients.

Granular Humic Acid – This product is sourced from Leonardite (the fossilized remains of Carboniferous plants) or brown oxidized lignite coal. It acts much the same as compost when added to deficient soils and promotes microbial activity (by providing food in the form of a carbon source) and reducing nutrient leaching. Plants benefit from improved root structure which in turn increases their nutrient uptake.

Fasciation

Fasciation is a condition that produces flattened, often elongated stems (that look like several stems fused together, as with the Dusty Miller shown) or the cresting of flower heads (shown below on Gerbera). It can be caused by bud or tip damage (from animals, insects, slugs or hard frosts), viral infection, chemical damage (including herbicides), mechanical damage and bacterial infection (Rhodococcus fascians). Fasciation is commonly found on Forsythia, Foxglove (Digitalis), dandelions, Prunus subhirtella and Delphinium. Examples of cultivated plants with fasciated growth habits include Euphorbia lactea ‘Cristata’ (shown above), Salix udensis ‘Sekka’ (Japanese Fantail Willow), Cockscomb Celosia (Celosia argentea var. cristata), crested ferns and Cryptomeria japonica ‘Cristata’. The only control is to prune out affected portions (6″ into healthy tissue) and disinfect your pruning tools in case the root cause is viral or bacterial in nature.

Cleaning Mason Bee Cocoons

When to Harvest and Clean – This is usually done anytime from October through to December, when the adult Mason Bees (Osmia lignaria) are fully developed within their cocoons and able to withstand the cleaning. Some supplies you will need to have on hand are bowls, newspaper, bleach, paper towels, a scooping tool, a lantern flashlight, a metal sieve and access to a water source.

Why Cleaning is Necessary – Cleaning Mason Bee cocoons is necessary to remove pollen mites (Chaetodactylus krombeini), which can threaten a colony when present in high numbers. The pollen mites appear as golden or orange granules surrounding the cocoon or occupying an entire chamber. These will affect subsequent generations by attaching to the emerging bees.

Checking for Other Pests – There are several other predator pests that can be found and mitigated while cleaning your Mason Bee cocoons. These include tiny Parasitic Wasps (these are quite common in nests using cardboard or paper tubes) which are laid right inside the cocoon and feed on the developing mason bees. Several species of beetles (and their larvae) also pose a hazard to nests as they will eat pollen, bee larvae and nest debris. The tray on the left shows a serious infestation with only a few of the cocoons surviving.

Opening the Nests – Open your stackable trays or unwind your disposable cardboard tubes over newspaper in order to keep the debris (mites, feces, mud) contained. A rounded popsicle stick or screwdriver scoop can be used to gently push the cocoons out.

Rinsing – Place your separated cocoons into the initial wash of tepid water (don’t worry, they float) for about 20 minutes, gently agitating from time to time to loosen the mud, which sinks. Do not use soap or detergents, as these will harm the bees. You will need 2-3 subsequent washes to remove mites. To do this, place the cocoons in a metal sieve and agitate over a bowl with cold water running into it – allowing the mites to float away with the overflow.

Final Rinse and Dry Screening – Place the cleaned cocoons in a sieve and dip in warm water with five per cent household bleach added (15ml in 4L of water) for 10 minutes, then rinse them under tepid running water for another five minutes to remove the chlorine. Dry your cocoons on white paper towel (makes it easy to see residual mites) for two hours, then use your metal sieve over the sink and agitate the dry cocoons for 30-60 seconds to dislodge any mites remaining on the surface.

Candling the Cocoons – The cleaned cocoons are then quickly candled using a large flashlight (do not leave them on the lens too long or they will be harmed by the excessive heat) to ensure that they have not been parasitized by tiny wasps – do this in a dark room. Parasitized cocoons are crispy to the touch and lighter in colour (almost transparent when lit) – these should be discarded.

Before and After – Here you see a pile of uncleaned cocoons (left) awash in mud, feces and pollen mites. Healthy clean cocoons are shown on the paper towel to the right. These photos were taken during a seminar run by Dr. Margriet Dogterom, an expert in Mason Bees who champions this wet cleaning method.

Shot of Gold Summer Planter

Sometimes when you are dealing with darker colours on the trim or siding of houses, you need to brighten things up by providing some sharp contrast. The same principle applies to darker coloured planters, especially black and deep burgundy pots. Of course, you still want a little variety (in form) to keep things interesting – which is why I chose a fine-textured shrub, a large flowering perennial and an ornamental grass – all with various heights. Given a little time, the arching stems of the Lonicera ‘Baggesen’s Gold’ will trail over the planter’s edge where it will compliment the rich purple foliage of the Sweet Potato Vine. The only maintenance required is a little deadheading on the Rudbeckia.

Rudbeckia hirta ‘Prairie Sun’ – A truly beautiful Gloriosa Daisy with large golden single blooms (borne from July to October) with each petal generously tipped in lemon yellow, all nicely contrasted by a green central cone. This Fleuroselect Gold Medal winner has coarse hairy leaves and looks great when paired with Verbena bonariensis. Grows 28-32″ high by 12-16″ wide. Zone 5.

Ipomoea batatus ‘Sweet Caroline Sweetheart Purple’ – A vigorous Sweet Potato Vine with dark purple heart-shaped foliage that will spill heavily over the side of the planter. It is the perfect foil for any plant with gold foliage or flowers. To overwinter, store the tubers in dry peat moss or vermiculite and keep in a cool, dry place. Grows 6-8″ high by 36″ wide. Hardy to zone 10.

Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gold Bar’ – A compact ‘Strictus’ or Porcupine Grass with more variegation in the form of tightly packed gold bars on the upright green blades. This slow-growing Japanese Silver Grass will take about 8 years to reach its ultimate height. It has burgundy-red plumes that appear in autumn and it makes a spectacular centerpiece in containers. Grows 3-5′ high. Zone 5.

Lonicera nitida ‘Baggesen’s Gold’ – This evergreen shrub or Box Honeysuckle is an RHS Award of Garden Merit winner and was introduced back in 1967. It features arching branches of tiny bright gold leaves that can wash out (or whiten a bit) in full sun exposures. Easily trained as an informal hedge or topiary. Grows 5′ high and wide (without pruning). Hardy to zone 6.

Summer Breeze Planter

Quite often those beautiful annuals that we planted back in spring start looking a little tatty, particularly as the July heat kicks in. Rather than deadheading, cutting them back or adding extra fertilizer – why not redo your pots using plants that come into their own or thrive in summer. Ornamental grasses, sweet potato vine, Euphorbia and Gloriosa daisies are just a few of the many choices available to you which will keep looking beautiful right into autumn. You are also not limited by the stereotypical fall palette of orange, yellows and earth tones – as evidenced by this striking display of green, burgundy and cream. This arrangement also brings plant texture into sharp focus, both above and below the rim of the lime green pot.

Chasmanthium latifolium ‘River Mist’ – This variegated form of Northern Sea Oats features green leaves with dominant (and irregular) white variegation that runs the length of the leaf. It has  a very bamboo-like appearance (but is clumping in nature) and produces silvery-green seed heads in late summer that turn a coppery-red in the fall. Grows 30-36″ high by 24-36″. Zone 5.

Rudbeckia hirta ‘Cherry Brandy’ – This hybrid was introduced a few years back with much fanfare, much in part to its breakthrough burgundy-red blooms. The modest-sized single flowers have prominent brown cones and ultimate height is just under 2′ high. You will need very sharp drainage for these to thrive, as they tend to rot out in our wet winters. Zone 5 hardy.

Carex ‘Ice Dance’ – A versatile sedge that works equally well in planters, wet soils and shaded gardens – it even tolerates some sun with moisture. ‘Ice Dance’ does creep a little but that is what makes it a good tall groundcover (grows 12-16″ high). As with most sedges, the flowers are rather insignificant and can be cut off as they appear. Reliably evergreen. Hardy to zone 5.

Ipomoea batatas ILLUSION GARNET LACE – This Sweet Potato Vine features Japanese maple-like foliage of a beautiful garnet-red, but they initially emerge a chartreuse colour. It tolerates full sun in coastal BC although you should delay planting until the soil has warmed. This Ipomoea will occasionally produce morning glory-like pink flowers. Grows 24-36″ wide. Zone 10.

Euphorbia polychroma ‘First Blush’ (syn. E. epithymoides) – This herbaceous Euphorbia features exciting foliage of grey-green with creamy-white margins, flushed with pink for much of the early season. It produces bright yellow bracts from May to June that eventually fade to a cream colour. Cushion Spurge has a mounding growth habit. Grows 12-16″ high by 16-20″ wide. Zone 4.

Winter Greens Christmas Planter

This Christmas planter began with a 20″ black plastic pot with the soil packed very tightly in order to hold the many cut branches in place. The tallest stem was from a Cotinus ‘Golden Spirit’, although any Smokebush would do. I encircled it with five intermediate Scot’s Pine (Pinus sylvestris) branches and fronted these with three Ilex crenata ‘Golden Gem’ stems for a little contrast. The pot was edged with twelve Podocarpus ‘Blue Gem’ cuttings (mine were more green than blue), filling out the base entirely. A solitary ‘Bud’s Yellow’ Shrubby Dogwood, three stems of Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’ and a solitary central Winterberry branch balanced out the crown. After the red bow was inserted, I framed it with three Ilex aquifolium ‘Golden van Tol’ stems to finish things up.

Cotinus coggygria ‘Golden Spirit’ (syn. ‘Ancot’) – One of my favourite deciduous shrubs with bright chartreuse rounded foliage which may shift to lime green in part sun. A perfect companion for burgundy-leaved plants such as Berberis ‘Rose Glow’. Autumn colours on this Smokebush vary from coral to reddish-orange. Airy pink blooms. Grows 6-12′ tall. Hardy to zone 5.

Pinus sylvestris – Scot’s or Scottish Pine is a native of Europe and temperate Asia. It features very distinct twisted bluish-green needles (held in pairs) and flaky reddish-brown to orange bark. There are many cultivars of this species including ‘Nana’ (dwarf form), ‘Aurea’ (golden winter foliage) and ‘Fastigiata’ (narrow upright form). Grows to 50’+ in height. Hardy to zone 3.

Ilex crenata ‘Golden Gem’ – This evergreen shrub is an RHS Award of Garden Merit winner and features small rounded golden-yellow leaves that form a dense canopy. It has insignificant flowers and a spreading growth habit, making it an ideal shrub for mass planting. Easily maintained with light pruning. Good bonsai specimen. Grows 2-3′ high by 4′ wide. Hardy to zone 6.

Podocarpus alpinus ‘Blue Gem’ (syn. P. lawrencei) – A good option for those of you who like a conifer with dusky blue-green foliage, but dislike the prickliness of junipers. This dense spreading evergreen shrub is soft textured and much resembles Yew or Taxus. It grows about 6″ a year and spreads with light pruning. Grows 2-3′ high by 3-4′ wide. Hardy to zone 7.

Cornus alba ‘Bud’s Yellow’ – This cultivar of Shrubby Dogwood produces some of the brightest yellow stems out there and they look great when combined with Redtwig varieties. These show quite well in front of deep green conifers and grow 6-8′ tall and wide. ‘Bud’s Yellow’ has green leaves, creamy white flowers in late spring and white berries by midsummer. Hardy to zone 3.

Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’ (syn. ‘Argenteo-marginata’) – This has long been a landscape standard due to its hardiness and tolerance of wet soils. ‘Elegantissima’ features bright red winter stems with greyish-green foliage generously edged in cream variegation. The small white flowers are borne from late spring to early summer. Grows 6-10′ tall and wide. Hardy to zone 3.

Ilex verticillata ‘Afterglow’ – A compact female cultivar of Winterberry with abundant 3/8″ diameter reddish-orange berries persisting on bare stems. This native of eastern North America is deciduous with large glossy green leaves. It requires a pollinator (‘Jim Dandy’) and prefers even soil moisture (native to swampy areas). Grows 6-10′ high by 6′ wide. Hardy to zone 4.

Ilex aquifolium ‘Golden van Tol’ – This sport of ‘J.C. van Tol’ features slightly puckered green foliage (on purplish stems) with bright gold margins and very few spines. It is considered self-fertile but produces a larger crop of red berries with a male pollinator. ‘Golden van Tol’ has a broad upright growth habit, reaching 10-12′ high by 8′ wide. Hardy to zone 7.

Christmas Greens Hanging Basket

If you are looking for something to do with those empty 18-24″ wire hanging baskets lined with moss – then consider converting them to seasonal Christmas baskets using a few cut greens from your garden or local nursery. This basket started with a base of green Hinoki Cypress offset with some silvery-blue Scotch Pine. Golden Threadleaf Cypress, some ‘Crippsii’ Hinoki Cypress as well as some ‘Golden van Tol’ Holly add a bit of contrast, while the Winterberry (Ilex verticillata) and red bows (hung off the support wires) punctuate the entire display.

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Well’s Delight’ – This Hinoki Cypress features a narrow conical form with highly textured emerald green foliage borne on contrasting reddish-brown stems. Given its modest ultimate size, it is a good choice for island beds and pairs well with deciduous shrubs such as Cotinus ‘Golden Spirit’ or Berberis ‘Rose Glow’. Grows 15′ high by 7-8′ wide. Zone 5.

Ilex verticillata ‘Afterglow’ – A compact female cultivar of Winterberry with abundant 3/8″ diameter reddish-orange berries persisting on bare stems. This native of eastern North America is deciduous with glossy green leaves. It requires a pollinator (‘Jim Dandy’) and prefers even soil moisture (native to swampy areas). Grows 6-10′ high by 6′ wide. Hardy to zone 4.

Pinus sylvestris – As the name implies, Scotch or Scots Pine is a native of Europe and temperate parts of Asia. It has distinct bluish-green twisted needles (held in pairs) and flaky reddish-brown to orange bark. There are many cultivars of this species including ‘Nana’ (dwarf), ‘Aurea’ (golden winter foliage) and ‘Fastigiata’ (narrow upright form). Grows 50’+ high. Zone 3.

Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Filifera Aurea’ – Golden Threadleaf Cypress is a common landscape conifer much in part to its ease of care. It features slender cord-like golden-green foliage that drapes to form a shrub with a mounding habit. Although often thought as as a dwarf conifer, it actually gets quite large over time. Prefers sun. Grows 8-20′ high by 4-8′ wide. Zone 4.

Ilex aquifolium ‘Golden van Tol’ – This sport of ‘J.C. van Tol’ features slightly puckered green foliage (on purplish stems) with bright gold margins and very few spines. It is considered self-fertile but produces a larger crop of red berries with a male pollinator. ‘Golden van Tol’ has a broad upright growth habit, reaching 10-12′ high by 8′ wide. Hardy to zone 7.

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Crippsii’ (syn. ‘Crippsii Aurea’) – A slow growing Hinoki Cypress with flat sprays of bright gold needles over a base of darker green inner foliage. The needles are nicely contrasted by reddish-brown stems and bark. It is an RHS Award of Garden Merit winner and is long-lived, getting quite large over time. Grows 40′ high by 15-20′ wide. Hardy to zone 4.